2011 Acura TL

Photo by Acura.com

© 2011 National Glass Association. All rights reserved. Visit GlassMagazine.com for glass removal and replacement instructions for more than 450 vehicles. To sign up to receive the For Technicians Only e-bulletin, email FTO@glass.org.

Vehicle type: Four-door sedan

NAGS numbers: Windshield part numbers FW2930 solar and FW3263 solar, aftermarket; front door glass part numbers FD23799-800 front R/L, solar

Helpful tools or supplies: Replacement clips for the windshield and top molding

Watch for: The side moldings on this car use the gradating clip system employed by Honda vehicles. These clips posed problems when they were first introduced and are still difficult to release without damage. However, with practice and patience, they are salvageable. For this installation, we released the clips by inserting a small slot screwdriver under the moldings and into the body clip slots that bite the teeth of the molding clip. Release one bite at a time while applying upward pressure, and the clip will eventually let go of the molding.

*With permission from National Auto Glass Specifications. Call NAGS at 800/551-4012 or visit http://glass.mitchell.com/.

A. Windshield

Preparation

1. Cover the front seats, floorboards, dash and steering wheel with a clean drop cloth or disposable plastic covers. Note: Always wear eye and hand protection when working with glass. Make sure you have the right glass and moldings and that the urethane systems you are about to use are current. Windshield part numbers are FW2930 and FW3263.

2. Drape the fender with a fender cover and tape up any vulnerable areas on the vehicle to protect against possible damage. Tape up the defroster vents to prevent debris from falling into the openings.

3. The rearview mirror is a simple T25 Torx set screw mounting. The OE glass comes with an attached backing plate for the wire cover.

4. Remove the windshield-wiper nut covers.

5. Remove the windshield-wiper nuts using a 17-millimeter wrench or socket.

6. To remove the cowl panel, first remove the four expansion-type retainers at the front leading edge of the panel.

7. Use a door-pad tool or pry tool to pop the underside retainers from the fire wall. There are eight total retainers, in three different styles: four blue retainers on the driver side that like to break upon removal, three white retainers on the passenger side that snap into their receptacles and one light blue retainer in the center that rarely breaks. Remove the cowl panel and set it in a safe place.

8. The side moldings extend from the top of the front fender to the bottom of the back glass. There is a seam at the top of the back glass where the moldings can be separated.

9. The side moldings use the gradating clip system employed by Honda vehicles. These clips posed problems when they were first introduced and are still difficult to release without damage. However, with practice and patience, they are salvageable.

For this installation, we released the clips by inserting a small slot screwdriver under the moldings and into the body clip slots that bite the teeth of the molding clip. Release one bite at a time while applying upward pressure, and the clip will eventually let go of the molding.

10. The top clips are a wing-style clip. Using your fingers, apply outward pressure while lifting with your thumbs to release. Repeat the entire length of the molding and separate the top molding from the back molding at the seam.

11. The top molding is a wraparound that pulls out. Note: Before beginning windshield removal, verify the new windshield is the correct one and the urethanes and primers are current. Never use outdated products as this could jeopardize the structural integrity of the vehicle and the safety of its passengers.

Removal

12. Make sure cutting blades are sufficiently sharp.

13. Before cutting out the windshield, remove contaminants from the glass and pinchweld to prevent contact with the urethane.

14. Use the cutting tools of your choice to remove the glass from the adhesive bead. Note, the bottom has two urethane beads: the normal continuous bead and one just above it that is about 28 inches long.

15. Take the windshield out of the opening using a set of vacuum cups. Make sure the vacuum cups do not overlap a crack in the glass. Lift the glass and place it on a windshield stand or suitable workstation.

Installation

16. After cutting the windshield out, remove contaminants such as dirt, moisture and debris from the pinchweld. Clean the dashboard.

17. Attach the top molding to the glass edge.

18. Dry fit the new glass to the opening. Mark your glass using a grease pencil or retention molding tape.

19. Place your vacuum cups on the new windshield in the appropriate location.

20. Set the windshield onto the old urethane.

21. With the windshield resting in the opening, make sure it is in the right spot.

22. Adjust both sides to the correct setting, marking the passenger side, then the driver side. Lift the glass and place it on a windshield stand or suitable workstation.

23. Follow the urethane manufacturer's recommendations for installation.

24. Clean the inside of the windshield using a urethane manufacturer-recommended product. Do not touch the bonding area of the windshield after cleaning, prepping or priming it.

25. Wear powder-free Nitrile gloves to protect against harsh chemicals.

26. Apply the glass prep and primer following the urethane manufacturer's recommendations. Make sure your primer is high enough for the second bead.

27. Using the tool of your choice, remove the original urethane bead, leaving 1 mm-2 mm of existing urethane on the pinchweld. Make sure there are no contaminants and do not touch the pinchweld after you have prepped the area.

28. Apply the pinchweld primer only to the areas where needed, and follow the urethane manufacturer's recommendations. Allow preps and primers to dry as recommended by the urethane manufacturer.

29. Apply a triangular bead of urethane to the same path as the freshly cut urethane on the pinchweld. Before cutting your V-notch, cut the tip off of your nozzle with a nozzle-cutter. With the cut nozzle, measure to the top of the roofline, and at 1/16-inch higher than the roofline, make a mark on the nozzle with a pen or marker. Notch the nozzle up to the marked line; this will give you the appropriate triangular bead.

30. Lift the windshield from the windshield stand or workstation using vacuum cups. Set the windshield on the urethane at the mark you made during your dry fit. Lower the driver's side of the windshield onto the urethane and line it up with the dry-fit mark; it is now in place.

31. The windshield is now ready to be decked. Press firmly to ensure a good seal.

32. Check for leaks. Use a leak detector to go over the perimeter of the windshield. If you find a leak, apply more pressure or add more urethane to the spot and ensure that the glass makes contact with the wet urethane.

33. Allow the urethane to cure according to the urethane manufacturer's recommended cure time before returning the vehicle to the customer. Warning: Disregarding the safe drive-away time that your urethane manufacturer recommends could jeopardize the structural integrity of the vehicle and the safety of its passengers.

34. You have completed the removal and replacement of the windshield.

B. Front door glass

Removal

1. Make sure that you have the right glass. Front door glass part numbers are FD23799-800.

2. To remove the door panel, first remove the decorative cover from the vertical door pull. Use a flat tool to pry outwards on the narrow portion of the cover, near the armrest. Then, slide the cover downward to remove.

3. Remove the larger Phillips-head screw that is behind the decorative cover.

4. At the base of the vertical leg of the door pull is a screw cover. Pry out the cover and remove the second Phillips-head screw.

5. In the well of the horizontal door pull, remove the floor of the well to expose another Phillips-head screw. Remove the screw.

7. Use a door-pad tool to start the panel removal. Then, grasp the panel around the edges and separate it from the doorframe. There are 11 retainers on the back side of the panel.

8. Disconnect the door window switch connector and put the door panel nearby. You will have to adjust the regulator for window attachment.

9. Remove the interior beltline weatherstrip by prying upwards off the interior skin of the doorframe.

Installation

10. Carefully remove the weather barrier. It tears easily.

11. Clean out the doorlite weatherstrip from around the perimeter of the doorframe.

12. Vacuum out any broken glass from the inside of the doorframe.

13. Plug the window switch to the door panel and lower the regulator to the access holes.

14. Remove the two 10-mm bolts from the mounting plate. Remove the tabs from the broken glass and discard. The new glass comes with tabs already attached.

15. Insert the glass into the doorframe and insert the edges into the vertical run guides front and back. Make sure the glass travels smoothly up and down without grinding glass or other obstructions.

16. Line up the lower tabs with the mounting plate and attach the window to the regulator's mounting plate.

17. Check operation.

18. If the door glass refuses to stop in the "up" position using the auto-up feature, a re-initialization is called for, following these steps:

• Turn the ignition switch to the "on" position.
• Lower the window by pressing and holding the "down" switch manually.
• Open the driver's door.
• Do the following four times before going to the next step:
  
  -- Turn the ignition switch to "lock," or press the engine start/stop button to select the "off" mode.
  -- Push down and hold the switch.
  -- Turn the ignition switch to the "on" position.
  -- Release the window switch.
• Confirm the auto-up feature does not work. If it works, go back to step one.
• Lower the window all the way down by pushing down the switch.
• Pull up and hold the "up" switch until the window reaches the fully closed position, then continue to hold the switch for one second.
• Confirm that the power window control unit is reset by inserting the head of a rubber mallet between the glass and the top of the doorframe. Activate the power "up" feature. The glass should contact the mallet head and reverse. If it does not, repeat the procedure above. If it does, remove the mallet head and check that the window still operates properly.

10. Re-install remaining parts in reverse order, and clean and detail the vehicle.

11. You have completed the removal and replacement of the front door glass. 

© 2011 National Glass Association. All rights reserved. Visit GlassMagazine.com for glass removal and replacement instructions for more than 450 vehicles. To sign up to receive the For Technicians Only e-bulletin, email FTO@glass.org.