Measure twice, install once

Proper procedures for bath enclosures
Content courtesy of MyGlassClass.com
November 4, 2008
RETAIL

The most important aspect of bath enclosure installations, as with all glazing, is the accuracy of the measurements. Measuring is the first link in a three-link chain that includes measuring, fabricating and installing. If the measurements are inaccurate, the fabrication reflects it. If the fabrication is off, the installation suffers.

This article discusses proper measuring procedures. It assumes the following site conditions:
• The installation has a neo-angle similar to that shown in Fig.1.
• The installation has a buttress, such as the one shown in Fig. 2. A buttress is a stub wall that rises from the floor.

Not every installation will have these conditions, but for training purposes, it’s best to study challenging situations.

Tool requirements
Before doing measurements, make sure you have the following tools and supplies on hand:
• Standard tape measure
• Accurate spirit level
• Contour wire gauge to trace the radius on the bull-nose tiles and fiberglass contours
• Protractor to measure the angles of the neo-angle posts
• Sliding T-bevel to make a template for a sloped wall.
• Layout form provided by the manufacturer of the plan and elevation of the enclosure for accuracy.

The measuring process
During the measuring process, discuss the installation options with the customer to avoid  surprises. Measure the door swing to determine any obstructions such as counters or towel bars in the door’s path. Never leave anything to chance. Measure everything; measure twice; and write it down. Follow these steps:

1. Determine the point of measurement. This is the point at which the enclosure will sit within the opening. Usually, this point is the on-center mark of the curb or the outside of the base, and often determined by existing conditions, such as grout lines, decorative tiles and other obstacles already in place. Do your best to determine these and get the customer’s approval.

2. Draw a center line down the point of measurement from wall to wall. If there is a neo-angle, draw the lines equal distance from one side of the curb and project lines that intersect at the angles. With a buttress, continue the straight line up the buttress and to the wall.

3. Project plumb lines up the walls from the points of measurement at the walls or buttress.

4. To measure the true height of the buttress, level across the buttress and measure from the bottom of the level to the top of the curb.

5. To measure the slant of the buttress with the level still in place, measure from the bottom of the level to the top of the buttress at the widest point. Record the amount of slant on the layout form. This allows the header to be level and determines the length of the uprights or jambs.

6. Use a contour wire gauge to determine the radius of the bull-nose tile or fiberglass contour at the corner of the buttress. Transfer this shape to the layout form.

7. Use a protractor to measure the angles at the intersecting points of the centerline you have drawn.

8. Measure each section carefully, starting with the base measurements, the wall jambs, the uprights and the return of the buttress.

9. Check the walls for plumb. If the walls are out of plumb more than the minimum amount specified by the enclosure manufacturer, you must make corrections.

10. Record all of the dimensions on the layout form and sketch what the enclosure should look like. Double check every measurement to prevent having to re-measure.

 

Content courtesy of MyGlassClass.com, a state-of-the-art online technical school created by the National Glass Association, McLean, Va., to provide commercial, retail and auto glass companies a convenient, affordable and comprehensive resource for improving worker skills, enhancing workplace safety and achieving professional certification. The following material is excerpted from MyGlassClass.com course No. 17, “Bath Enclosures and Residential Operable Glass.” For more information, visit www.myglassclass.com.

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